Category: Sleep
This summer started with a prolonged wknd visit 2 friend's summer house near Murter island and that was pretty much all of regular sea activities 4 this vacation - everything else had a little twist.
Shortly after that bunch of us headed towards Split 4 Ultra Europe music festival 2 experience 3 nights of heavy partying. Compared 2 last year when Ultra was 1st time held in Croatia, this time there was visible upgrade in almost any sense. In short, Poljud stadium was transformed into a melting pot 4 more than 120 000 party lovers from more than 70 countries. I believe that's closest 2 Woodstock's energy my generation will ever be. Btw, if Ultra's impact on tourism and economy in general won't push Croatia out of recession I don't know what will.
So, I was looking forward 2 it very much and my expectations were mostly fulfilled. Even if majority of d mainstream DJ's were brainlessly trying 2 play louder and crazier, they were in most cases empty and couldn't set d crowd on fire. Instead of naming those mediocre performances or discussing individual techno/house/trance/minimal/dubstep/reggaeton/big room/etc preferences, 4 me very solid headliners were David Guetta, Afrojack and Tiesto (although all more or less commercial style focused), while on d other stage surprisingly memorable performance was delivered by Disclosure, Pretty Lights and Carl Cox (all more or less unconventional or "old school" focused). Also, after hearing Fedde Le Grand, Martin Garrix and Laidback Luke's set on line, I can say they were also respectable, especially if u listen 2 them live. BUT, Armin van Buuren effortlessly delivered "1 of a kind performance". It's kind of tricky 2 explain how he does it. If we try 2 dissect this phenomenon, d catch might be him cleverly combining hard style elements with meaningful lyrics. In any case, it enabled him 2 connect with an audience on a personal level so he managed 2 put most of 60 000 ppl in d "state of trance". Maybe best explanation would be 2 quote his words during d live set: "I'm on a mission. A mission 2 let d melody flow through u". And that's exactly what Armin does - he takes u on a journey. Anyway, that was certainly 1 of WOW moments every1 should experience, in this or other preferred music genre. Personally, few years ago would never thought 4 me 1 of such genres would be EDM but it certainly is. In short, "this is what it feeeeels like".
In an blink of an eye Ultra was finished, but more WOW moments were just around d corner...
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Only a week after Ultra it was time 4 official vacation 2 kick in and me 2 travel 2 Portugal.
There's so much 2 say about this beautiful country full of contrasts. Since I started this post with music, lets continue with Fado 1st. Well, Fado is authentic native music definitely interesting 2 hear but it's not my cup of tea. It has kind of sad but also proud note 2 it, often followed by quite superficial lyrics as I heard. In any case, when I don't understand d lyrics music automatically loses half of its charm, but I was glad 2 experience it anyway. Except Fado, more or less everything else is great in Portugal and I enjojed it a lot (expect maybe d fact that in d restaurants when they realize u'r a tourist they often try 2 sell u up many things u didn't order or that Lisbon's center is packed with dealers). Now when we covered few downsides of Portugal, let's move 2 all d great stuff it has 2 offer.
LISBON - there I spent almost a week so I'll mostly focus on sharing impressions about it - 1st of all 'cause it's phenomenal city full of opposites that function so well as a whole and 2nd of all since 4 me it's best value 4 money capital I've seen so far. So, it has almost 2 million ppl (wider Lisbon), full of both extra modern and hystorical neighborhoods, endless ocean promenades, relaxed lifestyle and vibrant night life. But let's go through all those contrasts 1 by 1:
MODERN vs OLD
I've never encountered such big a difference between futuristic and historic elements in 1 city that function so well together. 4 example, near d airport is totally modern part of d city called Parque das Nacoes, full of extra modern structures along d coast line. On d other hand, old town (Bairro Alto) is central part of d city packed with picturesque old streets full of authentic restaurants. There ppl still live as they were in d old days so it's common 2 find them drying their clothes on d balconies in d middle of d street. Great place 2 get lost or escape from d urban buzz.
vs
Parque das Nacoes Bairro Alto
UPHILL vs DOWNHILL
Whole city is built near d ocean or on top of small hills which surround it. Therefore, there's a significant height difference between downtown and uptown that u can climb either on foot, car, via 1 of several funiculars or by using Santa Justa elevator. Walking around c city requires some physical stamina, so when u combine this with healthy see food native ppl r commonly eating, it might be an important pace of a puzzle why I haven't seen an obese Lisbon citizen. It's cool that they decided 2 keep an old tram No. 28 that still drives through d center. Nice place 2 have a great view over d whole city is Castillo Sao Jorge, located on top of Alfama district, which is famous 4 authentic restaurants playing live Fado.
vs 
Santa Justa elevator Old funicular
RICH vs POOR
As I've been told, Portuguese ppl r still quite traditional (and btw religious) and your family name even nowadays plays an important role in determining your prosperity. Like in every city, there r high-end areas (like Lapa district full of embassies or luxurious residential palaces, which is d only part of d city that wasn't destroyed in d big earthquake and fire in 18th century I think) or Chiado/Baixa area full of fancy shops and parts of town which r neglected or even visibly poor. Many tourist attractions r packed with beggars or street performers who r usually extra creative in d way they ask 4 money, while main walking areas in d center r full of dealers who offer u drugs @ every corner. In any case, they r in fact harmless and city is very safe during d day. During d night Bairro Alto turns into a party place full of black ppl and tourists.
vs 
Royal family tree Beggars
WATER vs LAND
Unique thing about Lisbon is that it's literally near d ocean and its presence is felt all over d city - from d climate, over food, 2 d way ppl spend their time. Almost throughout d whole city there is an endless walking areas near d see where u can relax and chill. U can also go swimming in some parts of d town, but there r better beaches 4 that (i.e. Guincho beach or beaches near Cascais). My favorite part of d town is Belem - neighborhood on d outskirts of d city full of monumental monuments (i.e. Jeronimos Monastery, Tower of Belem, Museum of modern arts, Monument 2 d Great Discoveries, Tropical garden, replica of Golden Gate bridge is also nearby etc). Many of those today UNESCO protected sights were originally build in d time of great discoveries and financed from wealth extracted from distant colonies, when Portugal was 1 of dominant global forces, together with Spain.
vs 
Belem's promenade City view from St. George castle
INDOOR vs OUTDOOR ART
Another great thing I notices and liked about d city is its artistic side. Except from numerous outdoor sculptures u can see all over d city, some of d museums I could recommend r Museu dos Coches in Belem (with ancient coaches and chariots) or Museu do Design e da Moda. Btw, it's great 2 buy Lisbon card which enables u 2 use all public transportation free of charge but it also gives u discounts/free entrances 2 numerous attraction, including popular museums. What I also find fascinating is Lisbon's outdoor graffiti which r all over d city, since governments is stimulating alternative artists 2 decorate selected parts of d town.
vs 
Museu do Design e da Moda Ourdoor graffiti
PARTY vs CHILL
In Lisbon there's a famous hang out out street called Pink street where ppl gather 4 drinks usually after midnight, but we went partying in a nice club near d bridge called Urban Beach. In fact, most of Bairo Alto area turns into a party place by night with many cool bars and clubs. Nevertheless, I was more impressed with numerous parks throughput d city where u can chill during d day. 4 me very cool were 2 botanical gardens (1 in Belem and other in d Rato district) with numerous exotic plants. Very popular chill destinations r also outdoor surfaces near d ocean promenade where ppl just lay on d grass or huge stairs 2 absorb sunlight or enjoy ocean breeze. Very cool!
vs 
Nice party place Nice chill plance
FAST vs SLOW
Even if I've seen some busy business ppl rushing throughout d city, in general Lisbon rhythm doesn't seem stressed @ all 2 me. Ppl somehow manage 2 take most of d day and night here - they eat/drink out a lot, stay awake quite long during d night (especially in Pink street) and start d next day rather late. They generally smile a lot, drink lot of vine and somehow take it slow. Good public transportation system (especially cheap taxis and very efficient metro) enable u 2 quickly do whatever needs 2 be done so that surely contributes 2 stress free spirit.
vs 
Busy Pink street Quiet parks & gardens
SINTRA - Sintra is cca. 40 minutes train drive from Lisbon and is my favorite sweet escape if u want 2 get away from urban buzz. Once u arrive 2 d center of Sintra there r buses which take u 2 several nearby palaces or castles. Most of them r on top of d hills surrounded by magnificent nature and parks. Probably d most popular 1 is Pena palace that served as a last resort 4 some former ruler of Portugal in his escape from d throne. It's very colorful and rich, surrounded by Queen parks and especially cool Valley of lakes. When in Sintra also be sure 2 visit National Palice with 2 strangely shaped chimneys on d roof. Other cool destination cca. 30 min bus drive from Sintra is Cabo da Roca - d westernmost point of Europe where land literally disapears in d Atlantic ocean. My favorite destination in Sintra is Quinta da Regaleira - a palace surrounded not only by great park full of suprises like 27 meeters long subterranean spiral tower representing link between this world and afterlife, but also place packed with occult stuff like hidden doors, underground corridors or mystical statues. Most of d places in Sintra district r pronounced UNESCO heritige sites which says enough about their importance and beauty.
Quinta da Regaleira Initiatic Well
Cabo da Roca National palace
CASCAIS & ESTORIL - both cities r cca. 20-30 km from Lisbon and r cool destinations 4 a short trip. Estoril is famous by its luxurious residencies and Casino which was 1 of d locations 4 filming an old James Bond movie. Cascais is next city in line and is famous 4 its nice sandy beaches. We just drove through those 2 cities so there's not much more I can share.
Cascais Estoril's casino
GUINCHO BEACH - phenomenal few kilometers long sandy beach cca. 30 km outside Lisbon I got a chance 2 see thanks 2 my great host. It's almost always windy there so they call it a surfers' paradise (guincho = scream). Even if it was 2 cold and windy 2 swim, place is great since it has special micro climate and breathtaking views of d ocean.
Guincho beach
GASTRONOMY - food & drinks r so great they deserve special post dedicated only 2 those 2 (coming soon)
GENERAL COMMENTS - traffic in Lisbon generally functions very well - especially d metro, which is 1 of d most modern I've ever seen. Also, many metro stations r pure work of art just by themselves. Climate is very pleasant during d summer - it was around 25 °C all d time and even if d city literally ends in Atlantic ocean, it's not that humid. City is packed with tourists and immigrants from all over d world, but feels very safe, during d day especially. Ppl r very laid back, little bit more reserved than Spanish, they eat a lot outside since prices of foods/drinks r quite affordable. For 10 € u can eat solid meal almost anywhere in d city. It's common that they eat dinner @ 10 pm or even later.
There's so much 2 say about this beautiful country full of contrasts. Since I started this post with music, lets continue with Fado 1st. Well, Fado is authentic native music definitely interesting 2 hear but it's not my cup of tea. It has kind of sad but also proud note 2 it, often followed by quite superficial lyrics as I heard. In any case, when I don't understand d lyrics music automatically loses half of its charm, but I was glad 2 experience it anyway. Except Fado, more or less everything else is great in Portugal and I enjojed it a lot (expect maybe d fact that in d restaurants when they realize u'r a tourist they often try 2 sell u up many things u didn't order or that Lisbon's center is packed with dealers). Now when we covered few downsides of Portugal, let's move 2 all d great stuff it has 2 offer.
LISBON - there I spent almost a week so I'll mostly focus on sharing impressions about it - 1st of all 'cause it's phenomenal city full of opposites that function so well as a whole and 2nd of all since 4 me it's best value 4 money capital I've seen so far. So, it has almost 2 million ppl (wider Lisbon), full of both extra modern and hystorical neighborhoods, endless ocean promenades, relaxed lifestyle and vibrant night life. But let's go through all those contrasts 1 by 1:
MODERN vs OLD
I've never encountered such big a difference between futuristic and historic elements in 1 city that function so well together. 4 example, near d airport is totally modern part of d city called Parque das Nacoes, full of extra modern structures along d coast line. On d other hand, old town (Bairro Alto) is central part of d city packed with picturesque old streets full of authentic restaurants. There ppl still live as they were in d old days so it's common 2 find them drying their clothes on d balconies in d middle of d street. Great place 2 get lost or escape from d urban buzz.
vsUPHILL vs DOWNHILL
Whole city is built near d ocean or on top of small hills which surround it. Therefore, there's a significant height difference between downtown and uptown that u can climb either on foot, car, via 1 of several funiculars or by using Santa Justa elevator. Walking around c city requires some physical stamina, so when u combine this with healthy see food native ppl r commonly eating, it might be an important pace of a puzzle why I haven't seen an obese Lisbon citizen. It's cool that they decided 2 keep an old tram No. 28 that still drives through d center. Nice place 2 have a great view over d whole city is Castillo Sao Jorge, located on top of Alfama district, which is famous 4 authentic restaurants playing live Fado.
vs Santa Justa elevator Old funicular
RICH vs POOR
As I've been told, Portuguese ppl r still quite traditional (and btw religious) and your family name even nowadays plays an important role in determining your prosperity. Like in every city, there r high-end areas (like Lapa district full of embassies or luxurious residential palaces, which is d only part of d city that wasn't destroyed in d big earthquake and fire in 18th century I think) or Chiado/Baixa area full of fancy shops and parts of town which r neglected or even visibly poor. Many tourist attractions r packed with beggars or street performers who r usually extra creative in d way they ask 4 money, while main walking areas in d center r full of dealers who offer u drugs @ every corner. In any case, they r in fact harmless and city is very safe during d day. During d night Bairro Alto turns into a party place full of black ppl and tourists.
vs Royal family tree Beggars
WATER vs LAND
Unique thing about Lisbon is that it's literally near d ocean and its presence is felt all over d city - from d climate, over food, 2 d way ppl spend their time. Almost throughout d whole city there is an endless walking areas near d see where u can relax and chill. U can also go swimming in some parts of d town, but there r better beaches 4 that (i.e. Guincho beach or beaches near Cascais). My favorite part of d town is Belem - neighborhood on d outskirts of d city full of monumental monuments (i.e. Jeronimos Monastery, Tower of Belem, Museum of modern arts, Monument 2 d Great Discoveries, Tropical garden, replica of Golden Gate bridge is also nearby etc). Many of those today UNESCO protected sights were originally build in d time of great discoveries and financed from wealth extracted from distant colonies, when Portugal was 1 of dominant global forces, together with Spain.
vs Belem's promenade City view from St. George castle
INDOOR vs OUTDOOR ART
Another great thing I notices and liked about d city is its artistic side. Except from numerous outdoor sculptures u can see all over d city, some of d museums I could recommend r Museu dos Coches in Belem (with ancient coaches and chariots) or Museu do Design e da Moda. Btw, it's great 2 buy Lisbon card which enables u 2 use all public transportation free of charge but it also gives u discounts/free entrances 2 numerous attraction, including popular museums. What I also find fascinating is Lisbon's outdoor graffiti which r all over d city, since governments is stimulating alternative artists 2 decorate selected parts of d town.
vs PARTY vs CHILL
In Lisbon there's a famous hang out out street called Pink street where ppl gather 4 drinks usually after midnight, but we went partying in a nice club near d bridge called Urban Beach. In fact, most of Bairo Alto area turns into a party place by night with many cool bars and clubs. Nevertheless, I was more impressed with numerous parks throughput d city where u can chill during d day. 4 me very cool were 2 botanical gardens (1 in Belem and other in d Rato district) with numerous exotic plants. Very popular chill destinations r also outdoor surfaces near d ocean promenade where ppl just lay on d grass or huge stairs 2 absorb sunlight or enjoy ocean breeze. Very cool!
vs Nice party place Nice chill plance
FAST vs SLOW
Even if I've seen some busy business ppl rushing throughout d city, in general Lisbon rhythm doesn't seem stressed @ all 2 me. Ppl somehow manage 2 take most of d day and night here - they eat/drink out a lot, stay awake quite long during d night (especially in Pink street) and start d next day rather late. They generally smile a lot, drink lot of vine and somehow take it slow. Good public transportation system (especially cheap taxis and very efficient metro) enable u 2 quickly do whatever needs 2 be done so that surely contributes 2 stress free spirit.
vs SINTRA - Sintra is cca. 40 minutes train drive from Lisbon and is my favorite sweet escape if u want 2 get away from urban buzz. Once u arrive 2 d center of Sintra there r buses which take u 2 several nearby palaces or castles. Most of them r on top of d hills surrounded by magnificent nature and parks. Probably d most popular 1 is Pena palace that served as a last resort 4 some former ruler of Portugal in his escape from d throne. It's very colorful and rich, surrounded by Queen parks and especially cool Valley of lakes. When in Sintra also be sure 2 visit National Palice with 2 strangely shaped chimneys on d roof. Other cool destination cca. 30 min bus drive from Sintra is Cabo da Roca - d westernmost point of Europe where land literally disapears in d Atlantic ocean. My favorite destination in Sintra is Quinta da Regaleira - a palace surrounded not only by great park full of suprises like 27 meeters long subterranean spiral tower representing link between this world and afterlife, but also place packed with occult stuff like hidden doors, underground corridors or mystical statues. Most of d places in Sintra district r pronounced UNESCO heritige sites which says enough about their importance and beauty.
Pena palace Valley of lakes
CASCAIS & ESTORIL - both cities r cca. 20-30 km from Lisbon and r cool destinations 4 a short trip. Estoril is famous by its luxurious residencies and Casino which was 1 of d locations 4 filming an old James Bond movie. Cascais is next city in line and is famous 4 its nice sandy beaches. We just drove through those 2 cities so there's not much more I can share.
GUINCHO BEACH - phenomenal few kilometers long sandy beach cca. 30 km outside Lisbon I got a chance 2 see thanks 2 my great host. It's almost always windy there so they call it a surfers' paradise (guincho = scream). Even if it was 2 cold and windy 2 swim, place is great since it has special micro climate and breathtaking views of d ocean.
GASTRONOMY - food & drinks r so great they deserve special post dedicated only 2 those 2 (coming soon)
GENERAL COMMENTS - traffic in Lisbon generally functions very well - especially d metro, which is 1 of d most modern I've ever seen. Also, many metro stations r pure work of art just by themselves. Climate is very pleasant during d summer - it was around 25 °C all d time and even if d city literally ends in Atlantic ocean, it's not that humid. City is packed with tourists and immigrants from all over d world, but feels very safe, during d day especially. Ppl r very laid back, little bit more reserved than Spanish, they eat a lot outside since prices of foods/drinks r quite affordable. For 10 € u can eat solid meal almost anywhere in d city. It's common that they eat dinner @ 10 pm or even later.
What 2 say @ d end... my impression is that Portugal is still living of it's old glory days. It's still not mainstream tourist destination in our region, but surely is 1 of d best value 4 money countries in Europe. Better put it on your "2 do" list before it becomes widely popular. And be sure 2 get enchanted by Lisbon's magic 4 @ least few days... 4 me it certainly did d trick!
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